Tag: Travel

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Blog Mains

Return to Eden

Cornwall’s Eden Project really is a modern day wonder. Not only is it a great day out – it really makes you think.

Walking around this vast green and floral park on a sunny September day, it is difficult to believe that, until just a few years ago, this was an abandoned mining quarry, grey and ugly, ravaged by decades of underground metal extraction.

The transformation began in the 1990s, with an ambitious vision to turn it into a vast green oasis, showcasing plant life from all around the world, over a 30 acre site. I visited it soon after it opened in 2001, and found it very impressive.

On my current travels around Cornwall I was keen to return, to see how it was progressing. I’m pleased to report it is thriving and continues to be a very popular destination for visitors to Cornwall.

The central attraction is the Biomes – the huge, golf ball-shaped structures nestled in the centre of the valley. The first maintains a warm temperate, Mediterranean climate all year round. The second contains a fully grown rainforest, no less. Both are big enough to lose oneself in, and host mature, fully grown trees.

I enjoyed climbing the steps to the Lookout high up in the Rainforest Biome. It was very humid up there, and the steps did swing around a bit, but the views were great looking down over the whole of the rainforest.

These are more than just large scale greenhouses. The Eden Project is on a mission to highlight the modern day challenges to the natural world through climate change and human behaviour. They do a great job of taking complex subjects and explaining them in terms that are easy to understand.

Amongst the cacao and coffee trees in the Rainforest Biome, I learned how deforestation simultaneously reduces carbon safely stored in trees and underground, and increases the carbon in our atmosphere, thereby contributing to global warming. Deforestation is largely driven by economic pressures on producers, and countries like Costa Rica come in for praise for their efforts to combat these through sustainable reforestation. I learned that we can all do our bit to support them by choosing to buy Fair Trade coffee and chocolate, which I will now try to do.

I like the art that is scattered around the landscape, such as the Rites of Dionysus, Greek god of wine, in the Mediterranean Biome.

We came across this mirrored tree goddess high up in the outdoor gardens, just inside what used to be the rim of the quarry, now known as the Wild Edge.

The art carries a loose theme that cultural diversity is important, and that resource management is better led by local communities than big corporations.

We had lunch in the Biome Kitchen. All the ingredients used are seasonal and locally grown. Suppliers are all Cornwall-based businesses, like soft drinks from Jolly’s, and ice cream from Roskilly’s. Even the catering promotes a sustainable local economy.

My choice for lunch was this griddled flatbread, topped with white bean pate, leaves, marinated roasted vegetables, tomatoes, balsamic drizzle, herbs and toasted seeds.

The overall message from the Eden Project is one of hope. If a team of people can successfully transform a disused quarry into a beautiful, green paragon of sustainability, then most things are possible. We learn that every one of us can do our bit – small changes made locally can contribute to wider scale positive change. It is never too late.

Time to add Coldplay to the ADK Playlist, with Paradise.

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Blog Snacks

The Lost Gardens

Ssshh, tread quietly so you don’t wake her..

The Lost Gardens of Heligan, the latest stop on our travels around Cornwall, is full of surprises – just look who we stumbled upon having an afternoon nap in the woodland.

This 200 acre family-owned estate was founded in the 16th Century. For many decades, Heligan hosted a thriving and self-sufficient community, living off the produce of the land, including the substantial kitchen garden here.

Then it all changed after World War 1. A number of the gardening team went to fight in the war and, sadly, never returned. The estate fell into neglect, abandoned and overrun.

Until 1990 that was, when the efforts of an enthusiastic band of volunteers helped restore the Gardens to the horticultural wonder they are today. The old walled gardens and greenhouses are a centre for cultivation of heritage vegetables. Traditional livestock breeds are farmed and horticultural skills from a century ago are being practised once again.

Such is the interest in this heritage time capsule that Heligan is now one of modern Cornwall’s top visitor attractions.

Many come to enjoy the blaze of colour from the flower displays.

Seasonal produce grown here can be enjoyed through the dishes in Heligan’s cafe. The old buildings are well cared for, and beautifully presented, decorated with freshly cut flowers. I took this photo in the old potting shed.

I liked this image of the whitewashed wall inside a greenhouse, with the sun streaming through.

Those wishing to venture deeper into the estate can seek out the Lost Valley, stretching down towards the coast at Mevagissey. What had become a largely overgrown and impenetrable jungle can now be crossed by boardwalk and rope bridge, enabling the Gardens’ many rare and veteran plant species to be enjoyed once more.

There are also one or two newer, enchanting surprises to be found along the way, such as the Mud Maid in my main photo at the top of the post.

Foodwise, another pleasant surprise on my travels has been my latest variety of Cornish Pasty! The name of this one is Veggie Power, which struck me as just a brilliant name for a dish.

The steak in the traditional filling has been replaced with mushroom and butternut squash, alongside the usual potato, onion and swede. The pastry looks and tastes like it has a higher content of wholemeal flour than the traditional version. Take a bow, Rowe’s Bakery in Falmouth for this tasty and innovative twist on the traditional Cornish Pasty.

The next track on the ADK Playlist is one that the sleeping Mud Maid might appreciate. This is The Cure with Lullaby.

Categories
Blog Snacks

Mount’s Bay, Cornwall

Our motorhome travels around Cornwall, in the south-west corner of Britain, have now brought us to Mount’s Bay.

St. Michael’s Mount is visible all around the Bay, from Marazion to Penzance in the west. It is an ancient castle and sacred site high up on an island, accessed via a causeway at low tide, as shown in my photo below. It’s a path well-trodden down the centuries by pilgrims and travellers.

Low tide was early morning when we visited, and the mist around the Castle had yet to fully clear. I clambered across the sand to get a dramatic picture of the Mount reflected in this rockpool.

By the time we had crossed and climbed the steep cobbled lanes to the summit, the mist had cleared. There were terrific views back to Marazion, the sun now glinting on the stone causeway snaking its way across the golden sand.

We returned ashore again before the sea flowed back, a few hours later. Anyone leaving the journey too late will receive nature’s reminder that time and tide wait for noone.

The stretch of the South-West Coast Path around the Bay is also a cycle trail. We were treated to more scenic views as we rode it all the way to Penzance.

Arriving in Penzance, I enjoyed a swim in the Jubilee Pool, a vast, open air saltwater lido. It dates from the 1930s and has an art deco design.

The main pool is filled directly from the sea, and was a bracing 16C (it’s, er, ok once you’re in and moving around!) I then warmed up in the Jubilee’s star attraction, a large geothermal pool heated naturally by an underground spring to a much more amenable 30C.

After all that walking, climbing, cycling and swimming, I reckon I had earned another Cornish Pasty.

These ones had a traditional filling of chopped steak, potato, onion, swede and black pepper, in a buttery, flaky pastry crimped together at the edge. They really are the most popular street food here, with thousands baked fresh every day by little independent bakeries. Warmed up that evening in the motorhome oven, it was delicious and filling.

Time for the next track on the ADK Playlist. Those misty, early morning images of the Mount kept reminding me of the lyrics in this track by Led Zeppelin ….pack your bags for the misty mountains, where the spirits fly….: This is Misty Mountain Hop.

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Blog Drink Mains

Atlantic Coast Express

The next adventure on our foodie travels around Cornwall is a trip to Padstow, by bike along the Camel Trail.

Padstow, shown in my photo above, is a compact, picturesque and very popular little fishing port on the north coast of Cornwall.

The Camel Trail follows a disused railway line along the bank of the River Camel estuary all the way from Wadebridge.

This coffee stop along the route is housed in a refurbished railway carriage. It takes its name from the train service that used to travel this line back in the day: the Atlantic Coast Express. You place your order, then collect it when the toot-toot of the old steam whistle sounds.

There’s a relaxed vibe, with people chatting, checking the map, or just enjoying the views across the estuary.

It’s a good place for a spot of bird watching.

The cakes at Atlantic Coast Express are all locally sourced and look great. We shared a peanut butter chocolate brownie, giving us the energy boost we needed to complete the 5 mile ride into Padstow.

Padstow has been rather thrust into the foodie scene since celebrity chef, Rick Stein, set up his seafood restaurant here. It’s proven such a success that he’s followed it up with a cafe, deli and cookery school. Other restaurants and outlets have followed,  meaning the town now boasts a varied and quality food offering, whether sit-in or takeaway, to suit every taste and budget.

We bought these fillets of Cornish hake from the wet fish counter in his deli.

Arriving that evening at our next motorhome stopover, I cooked them in a foil parcel on the Cadac (my gas bbq). Ten minutes was all that was required, then a squeeze of fresh lemon and a few twists of black pepper. We served them up with Cornish new potatoes and broccoli.

A bottle of Cornish IPA was a perfect accompaniment to the meal, also biked back to the van in my pannier, from the Padstow craft brewery.

We had live music at our campsite last night, and this timeless classic is one of the tracks the band performed. It could be a motivational song when it comes to cycling, considering all the hills here in Cornwall! This is Jackie Wilson with (Your Love Keeps Lifting Me) Higher and Higher.

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Blog

Magical Cornwall

We’re off on our motorhome travels again, this time around Cornwall in the south-west corner of Britain. I’ll be visiting some interesting places and posting about the great regional food and drink to be found in this part of the world.

First stop is Tintagel on the north coast – an ancient castle up on a rocky headland, with views out to the Atlantic. The site is full of mystery, having links to the legend of King Arthur.

Those making it to the summit are greeted by the imposing figure of Gallos, shown in my main photo above. This statue in bronze symbolises the power of the ancient Cornish rulers who reigned here in the Dark Ages, around the 6th Century AD. His ghostly, semi-transparent, sword-wielding figure evokes the legend of Arthur.

We walked here from our campsite, 3km along this rugged coastline via the South-West Coast Path.

The Castle ruins are on an island, reached by walking across a high suspension bridge that’s replaced the causeway – long since eroded and tumbled down into the sea.

Several steep flights of steps take you down to the beach below, which can only be reached at low tide. The final set of steps has been washed away by the sea, leaving one to clamber over the rocky debris to reach the sand.

Many people make the descent to explore the vast hole cut into the rock face by the waves. It is known as Merlin’s Cave, supposedly the place where the famous wizard resided.

I was surprised how vast it was inside. I took this photo looking out towards the headland opposite and the crashing waves.

Excavations of the Castle site suggest that the people who lived here in the Dark Ages ate and drank well. There is evidence of a sea trading network with the Byzantine Empire, and fine foods and pottery imported from the Mediterranean.

The taste for fine food certainly continues in modern day Cornwall, as a walk up into nearby Tintagel village will show. There is no shortage of tempting pubs and cafes offering delicious Cornish Pasties, cream teas and clotted cream ice cream. Meanwhile, any budding wizards will also find a unique range of shops specialising in all things alternative therapy, sorcery and witchcraft.

Hungry after a morning of walking, climbing and scrabbling over rocks, we settled at the Cornish Bakery, where I opted for this Cornish Pasty. It had a delicious filling of chorizo, mozzarella and Cornish sea salt.

Sweet was a slice of Cornish Pudding, a local take on bread and butter pudding, with pastry baked in custard, laced with berries and chocolate.

Magical!

Today’s musical choice just has to be prog rock: there is enough mysticism about Tintagel to inspire an entire Led Zeppelin album. This track is a duet between Robert Plant and Sandy Denny, from Fairport Convention, over some intricate acoustic mandolin by Jimmy Page. Light up an incense stick and enjoy Led Zeppelin with The Battle of Evermore 🙂

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Bakes Recipes

Dorset Apple Squares

Having invited friends over this week for coffee and cake in the garden, I was keen to bake something tasty and seasonal for us all to enjoy. The previous few days had been spent down in Dorset (home of the famous Dorset Apple Cake), which started me thinking, as the apple trees in the ADK garden are now laden with fruit (see below). With a bit of help from a recipe on BBC Good Food, the idea for this traybake slowly came together.

Servings

Makes at least 16 squares.

Timings

15 mins to prepare, 45 mins in a fan oven at 160C.

You Will Need

  • 400g apple
  • half a lemon
  • 220g butter, softened
  • 250g caster sugar
  • 4 eggs
  • 350g self-raising flour
  • 2 tsp baking powder
  • ground cinnamon and dark brown sugar, to sprinkle

Method

  1. Grease a baking tray and line with baking paper. The one I used is 22cm square. Switch the oven on to 160C.
  2. Peel and finely chop the apple. Place in a bowl and squeeze the lemon over. Stir so that the apple is coated in the lemony juice.
  3. Place the butter and caster sugar in a separate bowl and cream with an electric mixer. Crack in the eggs and mix.
  4. Sieve in the flour and baking powder, and fold in with a spatula, so that there are no dry ingredients.
  5. Tip in about 75% of the chopped apple and stir to incorporate.
  6. Spoon the mixture into the prepared baking tray and level with the back of a metal spoon. Sprinkle over a dusting of ground cinnamon, and then crumble over the dark brown sugar. Gently press in the remaining pieces of apple.
  7. Place in the oven at 160C for 45 mins, by which time a skewer inserted in the middle should come out dry.
  8. Remove and leave in the tin for 10 mins, before transferring to a wire rack to cool. Cut into 16 squares.

Customise It!

Use mixed spice or grated nutmeg in place of the cinnamon if you wish. Enjoy a square on its own to accompany a tea or coffee, or with a few dollops of cream or natural yoghurt alongside.

I heard this track on the radio recently, and was impressed by its fresh and distinctive sound. This is Sub Focus with Off the Ground.

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Recipes Snacks

Blueberry Cream Cheese

Our current heatwave here in the UK, with temperatures beyond 30C in some places, has prompted memories of the last time I enjoyed (or endured?) such temperatures – earlier this year, in Australia.

It was in the hot climate of Queensland that we came across blueberry cream cheese, served with freshly made bagels at a cafe called O Bagel. The food tasted so good we visited their branches in both Gold Coast and Brisbane on our travels. Check out my post from Surfer’s Paradise to read more.

So this week, we’ve been inspired to have a go at making our own. The result has been a surefire hit in the ADK household, served on corn cakes, shown below.

It can also be enjoyed on rice cakes, oatcakes, as a dip with crudites and, of course, spread on a toasted bagel.

Want to know how to make it? It’s dead easy, so read on.

Servings

Around 450g of blueberry cream cheese.

Timings

15 mins to make.

You Will Need

  • 300g full fat soft cheese
  • 150g blueberries

Method

  1. Tip the blueberries into a saucepan. Heat until the juices are boiling then reduce to a simmer for about 10 mins, or until they take on a jammy consistency. Leave to cool.
  2. Stir in with the cream cheese until combined, making a vivid shade of purple.
  3. Place in the fridge, where it will keep for up to a week.

Customise it!

If you wish, you can add in a sprinkling of caster sugar to the blueberries as they cook. Also, as an alternative to serving on corn cakes, oat cakes, bagels etc, you can use this as a frosting for a cake.

My wife Lesley has been the creative force behind this recipe, so she gets to choose the next track for the ADK Playlist. She’s very much enjoying the Olympics from Paris à ce moment, so has opted for Vanessa Paradis with La Seine.

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Blog Snacks

The Giant’s Causeway

While spending this week in Northern Ireland for a family wedding, a visit to the Giant’s Causeway has proven to be a very popular day out.

Geologists will tell you that this vast stetch of coastline was formed 60 million years ago, when the shifting of the Earth’s tectonic plates unleashed molten rock and lava that, over time, has been shaped by rivers and glaciers into the unique honeycomb-patterned, hexagonal basalt columns that we see today.

However, as Irish people will tell you, the real explanation is that the rocks were scattered here by local giant, Finn McCool, as a walkway over to Scotland where he had challenged a neighbouring giant to a fight. The story goes that, on seeing that his opponent was even more gigantic than him, Finn fled back home, ripping up the causeway as he went, leaving just the end of it that we can see today.

Whether it is the science or the Celtic folklore that you find persuasive, you can’t fail to be impressed by your visit.

Designated a UNESCO World heritage Site in 1986, it is now a popular destination for visitors from all over the world. The basalt columns make natural stepping stones, and it is fun clambering over them to reach as close as you dare to those breaking waves rolling in from the Atlantic.

The views out to the Ocean, and east and west along the Antrim coast are spectacular.

All that fresh air and activity had given us a Giant-sized appetite, so back at our guest house I rustled up this snack, that I have no doubt even Finn McCool would appreciate. It is a Soda Farl, split in two, toasted and filled with rashers of bacon, fried egg, cherry tomatoes and slices of avocado. I made 6 of these – one for each of our party – and they were wolfed down. Luckily I was able to take this photo of one of them before it disappeared!

Another great Northern Irish track to add to the ADK Playlist – this time we travel along the North Down coast to Bangor, home of Snow Patrol’s Gary Lightbody. Here they are with You’re All I Have.

Categories
Blog Breakfast

Breakfast in Belfast

This week I am visiting Northern Ireland for a family wedding. I’ll be making the most of the opportunity to taste some traditional delights of the local foodie scene, including the Ulster Fry, Potato Farls, Egg and Bacon Sodas and, of course, the legendary Belfast Bap!

Arriving in Belfast in the very early morning, off the overnight ferry from Liverpool, we headed to St. George’s Market on May Street, for breakfast.

St. George’s has been here in the city centre since the Victorian era. It is now the oldest survivor of the Markets District that grew up as the city began to thrive as a commercial port. Originally built for the sale of butter, eggs, poultry and fruit, it expanded over the years to include clothing, hardware and antiques.

In the 1980s it was threatened with closure, the costs of maintaining a Victorian building, the impact of the Troubles, and ever more stringent hygiene regulations, bringing severe challenges. However, a campaign by the City Council, traders and the public resulted in a Heritage Lottery Fund grant for the refurbishment of the building, making it fit for the 21st century.

That proved to be a truly inspired decision: with ever more people visiting Belfast in the years following the Good Friday Agreement, St.George’s swings into operation every weekend, its offering now including a high quality range of local, traditional food and drink.

It had been a long sailing from Liverpool, and seeing these tempting piles of freshly baked Potato Breads, Baps and Soda Farls heightened my appetite!

After a walk around the stalls, we settled on Sizzle and Roll, as shown in my main photo at the top of the post.

I opted for a Belfast Bap, shown above. It is a large, soft floury bread roll, my choice of filling being rashers of bacon, tomato, Cashel Blue cheese, rocket leaves, crispy onions and onion relish. My wife chose a mini Ulster Fry of bacon, egg and sausage served inside a toasted Soda Farl – the name for an individual portion of soda bread. Everything was cooked hot and fresh as we waited.

We bought our coffees from the S.D. Bell’s stall, which is one of Ireland’s oldest independent coffee roasters and tea merchants.

There is some excellent food for sale on the other market stalls – this home bakery had some interesting, freshly baked loaves of bread on offer.

St George’s is a great place to pass the time just wandering, checking out the diverse range of stalls, with everything from wet fish to original art, an amazing selection of local cheeses from all over Ireland, souvenirs and antique collectibles.

A hot tasty breakfast and a wonderful way to start our visit. Let’s hope the coming week brings more days like this! That reminds me of a song I’ll now add to the ADK Playlist by local boy, Van Morrison – here with Days Like This.

Categories
Blog Mains

Baked Mackerel Al Fresco

This weekend we spent a few days down in the New Forest in our motorhome. A short cycle ride down to the beach, and along the coast, brought us to Mudeford Quay, a local sea fishing centre and home of a fresh fish stall.

Being a working quay, there is always lots going on to watch and do. Think you can catch a crab with a line and some bait? This is a good place to have a try (see below). Just make sure you don’t fall off that wall into the Solent!

There are views over to the Needles on the Isle of Wight, and a little ferry traversing the strong currents between here and Hengistbury Head.

The sea fish stall is as unpretentious as the rest of this delightfully busy area. Here it is tucked away behind the nets and lobster baskets, its roof heavily weathered by the sea air.

Inside, local catch of the day is sea bass, mackerel and bream. We chose a couple of mackerel, which this helpful lady cleaned and filleted for us, before biking them back to the camp site.

That evening, I wrapped them in foil parcels and cooked them on my Cadac Safari Chef. This is a portable and versatile grill that plugs directly into the gas tank of the motorhome. It makes al fresco cooking a breeze.

As you can see from my photo, it is obligatory at this stage of the process for the chef to have a chilled craft beer alongside 🙂 . Today’s choice is Neck Oil by Beavertown Brewery.

12 minutes later and the foil parcels are opened carefully, revealing the tender flakes of the baked fillets.

Cooked, freshly caught mackerel tastes great, so needs little added – just some lemon and a few twists of black pepper. We ate them with steamed new potatoes and broccoli as the sun was setting. Oh, and with a glass of chilled Pinot Grigio, of course.

From sea to plate in under 24 hours!

So what musical track can I pair with this post? There is such a choice: Hooked on a Feeling? Under the Sea? Maybe Rose Royce with Fishing on a Star? Anything by Fleetwood Mackerel?

I’ve settled on this one: Kayleigh by Marillion. The name of their lead singer? Fish, of course 🙂