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Bakes Blog

Winter Cherry Muffins?

Wherever I can, I try to be an ethical food shopper – conscious of the environmental and social impact of the produce that ends up for sale in our shops and market stalls here in the UK.

This means I have an issue with the black cherries that appear in our supermarkets this time of year. Nothing to do with their taste – they are every bit as delicious as they look. So what’s my problem?

Well, one look at the January frost on the ground in the UK will remind you that it is not exactly the season for luscious cherries to be blossoming on the trees. Just like Paddington Bear, they have travelled here all the way from South America. That is way too many food miles for my liking – the Earth could well do without the energy consumption and carbon generation associated with that amount of transportation, and the refrigeration needed to ensure they arrive here in fresh condition.

However, it’s never that straightforward, and this presents me with lots of dilemmas. Ok, I hear you say, so they’ve been shipped here from half way around the world, but isn’t it preferable that they have been grown naturally in a seasonal, sunny climate? Isn’t that better for the environment than the fruit, tomatoes etc that are grown out of season in a heated glasshouse closer to home, here in the UK or northern Europe?

And how is this different from the bananas, pineapples and other fruit and veg that we import? Or longer life items like tea, coffee and cocoa? If we boycott certain items, aren’t we damaging the trade of countries with less well-developed economies?

Aaagh! See – I told you it was a nightmare.

Over time, I’ve developed a few rules of thumb to navigate my way through this ethical minefield.

Firstly, as far as possible I buy and cook with food produced locally and in season.

Secondly, I’m fine with fruit and veg, and store cupboard foods, that we just can’t grow in our climate, like tea, coffee, bananas etc being brought here. When fairly traded, this creates jobs and helps the producer country develop and maintain a sustainable economy.

But as for foods we can grow here in summer (like cherries), I don’t see why we in the western world have to be so spoiled as to expect them to be shipped to us from wherever, all year round, regardless of the impact this has on the planet. If we really can’t do without cherries in our winter, we can preserve part of our own summer harvest, or put them in the freezer.

But wait – there is yet one further ironic twist that highlights the futility of this episode of global trade. This week in Sainsbury’s, the packs of South American cherries were all yellow stickered with massively reduced prices. They had reached their sell-by date without anyone buying them at normal price. Were my fellow shoppers taking an ethical stand and refusing to buy them?

It was too tragic a thought that all this beautiful fruit, having been carefully cultivated by South American farmers and brought all this way, would now begin decomposing on our shores, as soon as the yellow stickers expired later that day.

So I bought a pack – at a ridiculously reduced price that cannot possibly reflect the true economic cost of the whole enterprise to Sainsbury’s. I reckoned the loss-making exercise will have taught them a harsh commercial lesson, and that importing practices might now be changed.

For the record, I lovingly washed, chopped and de-stoned the cherries, mixing them with some cocoa and other long life, store cupboard ingredients.

I baked the choc cherry muffins shown in my main photo above. They were delicious, but I will wait to the summertime to post the recipe, when cherries are properly in season here!

But hey, here’s an idea: what if, for a couple of months this time of year, we get by with our native apples and the soft fruit we’ve grown through the summer, having preserved it or frozen it to see us through the winter. The planet can be spared the pointless exercise of transporting cherries half way around the world, and our lovely friends in South America can be left to enjoy their own fresh produce.

Now what’s wrong with that? Comments welcome!

In the meantime, here’s The Jam with All Around the World.

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Blog

Hamble Spring Market

This Sunday we went to our first Hampshire Farmers’ Market of 2023, at the nearby village of Hamble. It took place down by the waterfront, where the River (also named the Hamble) meets the Solent (which in turn flows out to the English Channel).

As the sign above shows, it is actually possible to walk or cycle there via the England Coast Path. You can also ‘park and float’ from Warsash (on the other side of the River) via a great little ferry.

I always like visiting these local markets. The food is original and high quality, and it’s an opportunity to support independent producers in a sustainable economy. You can buy as much or as little as you wish, and packaging is minimal, as shoppers usually bring their own bags.

The sellers are generous with tasters and free samples. This adds a lot of fun and, like the produce itself, is not something you’d normally find in the branch of a big supermarket chain.

I’ll start with New Forest Shortbread. This lady bakes all her own in a 200 year-old cottage in Burley, in the centre of the Forest. I particularly liked the coffee shortbread, blended with Mozzo coffee roasted in Southampton.

A few weeks back, we were having a tomato shortage in our local shops. No chance of that now however, with this array of beauties grown just across the Solent on the Isle of Wight.

Lovers of charcuterie were also well served by this selection of spicy cured meats.

And why not combine this in a tasty sandwich, with some fresh sourdough bread.

We brought home a box of four fishcakes by Catch, who are based in Calshot, a little way along the coast. You can mix and match flavours, my fave being mackerel and beetroot.

Brownies are always a hit, especially when you have this amazing range of flavours to choose from.

Basingstoke’s Longdog Brewery were attracting a lot of interest with free tasters of their excellent beers….

…so much so that I just had to take home a bottle of Longdog IPA, which I enjoyed later.

It went down a treat sitting in the back garden listening to some music. A track came on my headphones which I hadn’t heard for some time, and I was reminded how great a song it was. Time to add it to the ADK Playlist, therefore. All the way from Montreal, here’s Arcade Fire with The Suburbs.

Cheers!

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Blog

Lost in the Supermarket

Cooking from recipes prepared by our top chefs can sometimes involve tracking down rather obscure ingredients. Even if we have a vague awareness of the product, we may never have tasted or tried to buy it before. Items that fall into this list for me have included porcini mushrooms, Szechuan pepper, rose harissa and kashmiri chillis.

Searching out products that are unfamiliar can be a challenge. I am fortunate to have a large Sainsbury’s and a cavernous two tier Tesco’s virtually on my doorstep, but can I find these ingredients there?

The usual story begins with checking out where I thought they would be, but without success. My visit then descends into a kind of aimless cruising of the trolley up and down the aisles in the hope of inspiration, or at least that something associated with the item will catch my eye. In a place this size, I’m thinking, surely it must be here, somewhere?

How long to carry on with this pursuit can be a tough call – depending on your viewpoint, it demonstrates either a laudable spirit of not wanting to be defeated, or a petulant state of blind obstinacy.

Of course, I could ask an assistant. However, I never want a member of staff to feel that I expect them to have an encyclopedic knowledge of where everything is displayed, in a store the size of an aircraft hangar. Eggs, bread, cereals – fair enough, but something that even I have never heard of outside of a Jamie Oliver book? Forget it.

My go-to now for specialist ingredients is Waitrose. I learned this after a fruitless search for tahini in the larger stores. On arrival at a smaller branch of Waitrose, a very helpful assistant escorted me to the correct aisle and shelf, pointing out that they had not just one, but three different types. Good old Waitrose.

Although we have a great range of food shops in the UK, we should always remember that they are not all the same – each carefuly targets their own market niche, and as cooks/consumers we should be prepared to use this to our advantage.

After one of these experiences recently, I was playing The Clash’s great London Calling album in the ADK kitchen, and this track Lost in the Supermarket came on. It made me chuckle and I thought I would share it here. To be fair, I am pretty certain that Joe Strummer and Mick Jones didn’t intend this song to be about walking round Waitrose looking for tahini. Then again, you never know.