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Lost in the Supermarket

Cooking from recipes prepared by our top chefs can sometimes involve tracking down rather obscure ingredients. Even if we have a vague awareness of the product, we may never have tasted or tried to buy it before. Items that fall into this list for me have included porcini mushrooms, Szechuan pepper, rose harissa and kashmiri chillis.

Searching out products that are unfamiliar can be a challenge. I am fortunate to have a large Sainsbury’s and a cavernous two tier Tesco’s virtually on my doorstep, but can I find these ingredients there?

The usual story begins with checking out where I thought they would be, but without success. My visit then descends into a kind of aimless cruising of the trolley up and down the aisles in the hope of inspiration, or at least that something associated with the item will catch my eye. In a place this size, I’m thinking, surely it must be here, somewhere?

How long to carry on with this pursuit can be a tough call – depending on your viewpoint, it demonstrates either a laudable spirit of not wanting to be defeated, or a petulant state of blind obstinacy.

Of course, I could ask an assistant. However, I never want a member of staff to feel that I expect them to have an encyclopedic knowledge of where everything is displayed, in a store the size of an aircraft hangar. Eggs, bread, cereals – fair enough, but something that even I have never heard of outside of a Jamie Oliver book? Forget it.

My go-to now for specialist ingredients is Waitrose. I learned this after a fruitless search for tahini in the larger stores. On arrival at a smaller branch of Waitrose, a very helpful assistant escorted me to the correct aisle and shelf, pointing out that they had not just one, but three different types. Good old Waitrose.

Although we have a great range of food shops in the UK, we should always remember that they are not all the same – each carefuly targets their own market niche, and as cooks/consumers we should be prepared to use this to our advantage.

After one of these experiences recently, I was playing The Clash’s great London Calling album in the ADK kitchen, and this track Lost in the Supermarket came on. It made me chuckle and I thought I would share it here. To be fair, I am pretty certain that Joe Strummer and Mick Jones didn’t intend this song to be about walking round Waitrose looking for tahini. Then again, you never know.