Slovenia – A Different Kitchen

This is a meal which I always enjoy when I visit Central Europe, because they do it very well. So, while here in Ljubljana, classy capital of Slovenia, I just had to look for it on the menus of the local restaurants and bars.

We chose a local restaurant named after a Slovenian poet, Valentin Vodnik, immortalised in a statue at the Central Market nearby. The place specialises in Slovenian cuisine, and featured just the type of dish I was looking for on its menu.

My meal is shown in the photo above. Two meaty, very traditional sausages served with sauerkraut. Sauerkraut is fermented, soured cabbage, and this serving was finely shredded and gently salted. In texture, it is not unlike the thin, fried onions that you might serve with a hot dog, but with a milder taste.

The sweet, to complement the sour, comes in the form of sweetened mustard, which I’ve found is a traditional accompaniment to sausage, or bratwurst, in Germany, Austria, Switzerland and, now, Slovenia.

The plate is completed with potatoes that, miraculously, somehow manage to be both roasted, yet served scooped and mashed (see my photo – don’t ask me how).

There is really only one choice of drink to accompany this meal, and that is a large glass of draft beer from local Slovenian brewer, Union. The glasses bear their name and their logo of the dragon, which is the city emblem of Ljubljana.

A wonder of a meal featuring local Slovenian cuisine, that I thoroughly enjoyed.

All this talk of sauerkraut has reminded me of a great track by this band. I will leave you with Portishead, and Sour Times.

Take It Slo

I am in Slovenia in Central Europe for a few days. I’ve been enjoying the Christmas market stalls and bars, and generally getting in the festive mood sampling delights like Gibanica, above.

For the benefit of those who may not know, Slovenia is a European country bordering Austria, Croatia, Hungary and Italy. It has been an independent state since 1991, following the break-up of the former Yugoslavia. Its capital, Ljubljana, is a compact and classy European city, with a medieval castle on a hill, an old town, cobbled squares and ornate bridges crossing a winding river. It is easy to walk around in a day, and can be reached in under three hours from London.

While here, it doesn’t take long to realise that the Slovenians really appreciate their regional food and drink. Gibanica, shown in my main photo above, is a traditional Slovenian cake, made with alternating layers of pastry, spiced apple, cream cheese, poppy seeds and crushed nuts.

You can also be pretty sure that the Apple Strudel will be good quality – see the portion I enjoyed below.

The cafe where we savoured these is in the courtyard of Ljubljana’s 14th Century Castle, now restored into a cultural centre with cinema, several museums, restaurants and shops. Perched on a hill, it has superb views for miles around. I climbed the many steps of the spiral staircase inside the ancient clock tower, not only to work off the Strudel, but to take advantage of the viewing platform at the top. I was rewarded with this view – the layer of morning cloud lifted to reveal the snowy peaks of the Alps to the north-west.

I expect there will be more to come from Ljubljana before moving on, so keep tuned for future posts.

In the meantime, I now know the answer to the question posed by the Black-Eyed Peas: Where Is the Love? Answer: It’s in sLOVEnia, of course!

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