Gösser und Gulasche!

While here in Graz, we have moved indoors from the freezing, yet festive Christmas Markets (see Walk Out To Winter) for our next tasting of traditional Austrian food and drink. We are now at the Gösser Bräu, a long established beer hall and restaurant over towards the River Mur in the west of the city centre.

Originally the site of the Gösser brewery, it has been serving traditional Austrian fare since 1902, along with some terrific beers. The place has a warm, modern and stylish interior, but still carries the look and feel of a classic European, high-ceilinged beer hall, with the chink and clatter of glasses and echo of lively chatter from the bench tables, mainly occupied by large groups of friends.

There were 6 hungry people in our party, all in search of some warming, filling and tasty rustic fare. My starter was a dish I have had before in Austria and really wanted to have again on this trip. It is Styrian Bean Salad, a regional speciality from this part of Austria. It consists of dark pulses the size of butter beans, tossed in green, nutty-tasting pumpkin seed oil. The salad is topped off with grated white radish, raw red onion rings and segments of hard boiled egg.

It was as delicious as I remembered it.

For mains, the Gulasche (or Goulash), was a popular choice with our group. It is shown in my main photo at the top of the post – a hearty dish comprising chunks of tender, slow cooked beef in a rich gravy, served with a Semmelknödel, a bread dumpling. I have only ever eaten dumpling on a very few occasions, and here it was skilfully prepared and cooked, with a mild herb flavouring. It held its shape when sliced and did a grand job soaking up the tasty gravy.

The beers are excellent. I chose the Bock beer that is brewed specially for Christmas and holiday occasions, having had a reliable recommendation on this (thank you, Kelvin!). It is a little stronger than their usual beer and packs a memorable, caramelish taste. I was enjoying it so much that, er, most of it had gone by the time I remembered to take a photo for the blog (whoops).

I noticed they were also serving a darker beer, so tried some of that. I liked the colour, which was somewhere between brown and ruby, and the thick foamy head. Predictably, the taste was maltier than the Bock.

Both made a really enjoyable accompaniment to the Goulash. It says a lot that everyone was sufficiently full to render a perusal of the dessert menu unnecessary.

My final challenge, before leaving Austria for home, is to find some traditional local fare that is oriented around fruit and veg. Tune in to my next post to see how that search goes.

In the meantime, with all this snow around in Austria, I can’t think of a better time to add a track to the ADK Playlist by these Scottish and Northern Irish alt-rockers. I saw them live at the time the album A Hundred Million Suns was released, and this is one of the many tracks I enjoyed. Here’s Snow Patrol with Engines.